No matter what method you use, an accurate tuner is a necessity. Some players tune “straight up” meaning that the major thirds are sharp and the minor thirds are flat, but most prefer not to forego the sweetness of these intervals and tune them so that they are totally beat-less and consonant. The flaws of Equal temperament reveal themselves primarilly when major or minor thirds are played, and the long sustained tones produced by the pedal steel guitar show up these flaws more than pretty much any other instrument, many players aim and strive to eliminate these flaws by tuning their steels using special cent offsets for each string. Many seasoned professional steel players “tweak” their tuning to improve their sound we call this “Sweetened Tuning”.īecause the steel guitar is a fretless instrument, it does not need to conform to the same compromises as regular fretted guitar is subjected to. Setting up and tuning a pedal steel can be a daunting task without a special tuner designed for pedal steel guitar tuning. The most common pedal steel guitars have 10 strings, followed by Universal 12 string instruments which purport to offer the same versatility as a double 10 string instrument, 8 stringed instruments were very popular in the 1950s and 1960s, they are less popular nowadays.Ĭentral to the pedal steel guitar is its ability to change tunings mid song with the help of foot pedals and knee levers which change the tension on the open strings thereby altering the tuning. I'd hold the test until I got some protection in place if I were you, but maybe you like toast better than me.The pedal steel guitar is usually tuned to either E9 or C6 - or both in the case of a double neck, but there are other tunings. I've seen poor design before, and I would've put a zener across their power supply if this thing turns out to work at all.Įdit: the 470 ohm resistor will drop sufficient voltage at only 9mA total, and each IC draws an average of at least 10mA, so that's the explanation why it lasts. I doubt any other version or type would stand 25V (for very long). If you Google the IC and take a look at a pdf datasheet you'll see an image of the IC. If you connected those caps to ground or in parallell it could explain the overload. The resulting total capacitance is thus half of each section (5 uF) and it also becomes a bipolar capacitor (meaning it can stand Alternating Current). ![]() That makes it a series connection of the two 10uF caps. In the diagram the wires are only connected to the upper two terminals, nothing to the common terminal. If you disconnected the ground wire and measured infinite resistances to the frame then that (together with the other equal resistances) is a good sign that the motor is ok. i'd like to be able to confirm if the motor is alive or dead if anyone has any tips for that, or any other reccomendations. In any case, if anyone could point me in a good direction that would be great. i don't really know what it should look like or if it could be frying transistors. on the scope the signal looks like a spike up and then down. The other thing i'm not sure about is the signal coming in from the tuning circuit. however bot coils are not open and have the same inductance so i'm not certain how to confirm that its dead. What i'm considering now is either that the motor is dead. with the motor board removed everything is stable and seems good. i can't really make any voltage reading on the motor board because it seems like it would start a small fire. everything else on that board seems to be just fine (although i'm not too sure about how to test the flipflops properly but all three share the same resistance readings). tried replacing them but they just toasted again. the MJE711 was burnt out and the 3.3ohm resistors were testing high. Naturally i began looking at the motor control board. the motor lookls like its trying to turn over but just moves about a quarter inch but does not spin. the strobe lights are on and respond to an input. the power supply seems to be giving the right voltages. here's whats going on and what i know.Įverything seems to work except the motor. ![]() i'm trying to get a broken peterson strobe tuner model 400 working again and have hit a bit of a wall.
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